Fried meat across the Turkic world

Kuyrdak, kuurdak and kaurma rest on the same kitchen idea: meat is cut into pieces, fried in its own fat, and finished with onion and few spices. Fattier, tougher cuts usually go in first, then vegetables or a little liquid. The dishes look simple, but the order of cooking decides the result.

In Kazakhstan, kuyrdak is known as lamb or beef fried with onion, often together with offal. Kyrgyzstan's kuurdak is very close in name and method, with meat and onion at the centre and potatoes added in some homes. Kaurma in Gagauzia is a Gagauz braised meat dish whose name recalls Turkish kavurma, though it is not certain whether the name spread from one source or arose in separate places. Ingredients and cooking times vary from family to family.

These dishes are usually cooked in one large pan or cauldron and brought straight to the table. Bread, fresh onion or pickles are enough alongside. Everyone eats from the same dish, and comparing the three recipes is a good place to start.