Noodles across the Turkic world

What these dishes share is dough that is rolled and cut, or stretched, by hand at home. Flour, water and often egg become noodles that arrive at the table in a broth or with a meat and vegetable sauce. Simple ingredients and a filling result make them part of both everyday meals and hospitality.

In Kazakhstan, kespe is made from hand-rolled, cut dough cooked in meat broth. In Uzbekistan, lagman pairs pulled noodles with a sauce of meat and vegetables; its origin is debated, and links to Uyghur and Dungan cooking in Central Asia are often mentioned. In Kyrgyzstan, ashlyan-fu is served cold and spicy, with starch jelly. In Tatarstan, tokmach, and in Bashkortostan, tukmas, are homemade noodle soups with closely related names and recipes; details vary from family to family.

These dishes are usually served from one big pot or in bowls filled again and again. Whether it is a hot soup or a cold ashlyan-fu, the conversation goes on until everyone's bowl is full.