Photo: Vaurien · CC BY-SA 3.0 de · Wikimedia Commons

Shah-i-Zinda

Tucked into the north-east of Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda is a narrow street of mausoleums lined with turquoise and deep-blue tilework, climbing up a stairway through centuries of Central Asian architecture. It is a place of living pilgrimage and a rare chance to see Timurid-era tomb art up close.

History

Shah-i-Zinda is a necropolis in the north-eastern part of Samarkand. Its Persian name means "the Living King" and is linked to the legend of Qutham ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, said to have come to Samarkand with the Arab conquest in the 7th century to preach Islam. One tradition holds that he was beheaded while praying, picked up his head and walked into a deep well known as the Garden of Paradise, where he is said to live still.

The complex grew over about eight centuries, from the 11th to the 19th, and now includes more than twenty buildings. Of the earliest structures mostly only bases and gravestones remain. Most of what you see dates from the 14th and 15th centuries under the Timurids, and later repairs did not greatly alter its look. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001, together with other historic sites of Samarkand.

What to see

The ensemble is divided into lower, middle and upper groups, linked by domed, four-arched passages called chartaks. The main gateway was built under Ulugh Beg in 1434-35. Near the staircase in the lower group stands the double-domed mausoleum of Kazi Zade Rumi, a scholar and astronomer.

The middle group holds mausoleums of Timur's relatives and of military and religious notables. Those of his niece Turkan Aga (1372) and his sister Shirin Bika Aga are admired for their rich tile decoration, and the unusual octagonal crypt nearby is easy to spot. In the upper group, three mausoleums face one another around a shaded courtyard, including that of Khodja Akhmad from the 1340s. The Qutham ibn Abbas complex lies at the north-eastern end.

Visiting tips

Shah-i-Zinda remains an active place of pilgrimage, so dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and keep your voice low inside the mausoleums. The path climbs a stairway and the paving can be uneven, so wear comfortable shoes.

Check entry fees and opening hours before you go. Early morning or late afternoon usually offers softer light on the tiles and fewer crowds. Rules on photography can vary, so ask at the entrance.