Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Registan

In the heart of Samarkand, three grand madrasas with turquoise domes and richly tiled façades face a historic square. Registan is one of the finest ensembles of Islamic architecture in Central Asia, with centuries of Timurid and later history written into its walls.

History

The name Registan comes from Persian and means roughly "sandy place". Main squares in cities across the Middle East and Central Asia were called registans, but the one in Samarkand is by far the best known. Under the Timurids it was the heart of the city, where people gathered to hear royal proclamations, and it later served as a commercial, educational and ceremonial centre.

The oldest madrasa on the square was built in 1417-1420 by Ulugh Beg, Timur's grandson and a ruler-astronomer. In the 15th century it was among the leading centres of learning in the Muslim world, and the poet and scholar Jami is said to have studied there. The Sher-Dor (1619-1636) and Tilya-Kori (1646-1660) madrasas were added in the 17th century under Yalangtoʻsh Bahodir, the Uzbek ruler of Samarkand. Earthquakes have damaged the buildings over time, and later restoration work has strengthened them. Registan is part of Samarkand's UNESCO World Heritage listing.

What to see

At the Ulugh Beg Madrasa, look for the large pointed-arch iwan facing the square, the minarets at the corners and the geometric mosaic panel above the entrance. Inside are a square courtyard, student cells and lecture rooms. The Sher-Dor Madrasa nearly mirrors it across the square. Its portal shows sun-backed felines, often described as lions or tigers, which is notable because living beings are rarely depicted in Islamic architecture. The name means roughly "lion-bearing".

Tilya-Kori means "gilded", and the name comes from the lavish gold decoration inside its mosque. It served both as a college and as a congregational mosque. Parts of the complex now function as museums. Nearby are the Shaybanid burial area and the Chorsu trading dome of 1785, today used as an art gallery.

Visiting tips

Registan looks different in daylight and in the evening, so it is worth seeing at more than one time of day. Entry arrangements and opening hours can change, so check before you go. Early morning is usually quieter.

Bring a hat and water on sunny days. These are religious heritage buildings, so modest dress is advisable, especially in areas used for prayer. Other Samarkand sights such as the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Gur-e Amir and Shah-i-Zinda can comfortably be combined with Registan in a single day.