Photo: RK · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Ark of Bukhara

Rising nearly twenty metres above the plain in the north-west of Bukhara, the Ark is among the oldest parts of the city. Inside its walls you can combine museums, restored palace spaces and centuries of dynastic history in a single visit.

History

The Ark is regarded as one of the oldest parts of Bukhara. It stands on the remains of earlier fortresses that were repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and these layers reach about twenty metres deep. Its exact age has not been established, but by around 500 CE it was already the residence of local rulers. One of the earliest written sources is Narshakhi's 10th-century History of Bukhara.

Legend credits the epic hero Siyavash with founding it. In the tale, he cut a bull's hide into thin strips and joined them end to end, then built his palace inside the area they enclosed. Narshakhi also records that the palace plan followed the stars of the Ursa Major constellation. Legend and history are hard to separate here, but these stories are part of the local tradition.

The fortress suffered in the Mongol conquest: the people of Bukhara took refuge inside, but Genghis Khan's soldiers took the Ark. All of the buildings you see today were built in the last three centuries. The present form began to develop under the Shaybanid Uzbek dynasty, and the Ark served as a palace and seat of government until it was heavily damaged in 1920 and fell to Soviet forces.

What to see

You enter by the ceremonial gateway, framed by two 18th-century towers. A gently rising ramp and a long covered corridor lead towards the Friday mosque; the corridor also gives access to storerooms and former prison cells. The outer walls are 16 to 20 metres high, with a perimeter of roughly 790 metres enclosing about four hectares.

Inside, several museums occupy the restored areas, including an archaeological museum and a local history museum. You can also see the throne room, the reception and coronation court, and the court mosque. In the central complex, one of the best-preserved buildings is a mosque linked to a legend of forty girls cast into a well.

Outside the gate lies the Registan square, which the fortress's western entrance once faced. It is worth a moment to see how the Ark relates to the city around it.

Visiting tips

The Ark is in the north-west of Bukhara and can be combined on foot with other sights of the old city. Check ticket prices and opening hours before you go, as they change. Some museums inside may need separate tickets, so ask on site.

Wear comfortable shoes for the ramp, courtyards and uneven stone surfaces. In summer there is little shade, so bring water and a hat, and aim for the morning or late afternoon. A guide can help with the stories and legends, but it is worth comparing details with other sources.